Chattanooga Pulse

If you’d like a preview of some of the changes coming down the pike to Chattanooga, hit the road for 250 miles to Greenville, SC. BMW moved into the formerly sleepy small city in 1992, and as the old song goes, “How you gonna keep ’em down on the farm/Now that they’ve seen Berlin?”

Just like Chattanooga, from Cherokee times, through the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, to its industrial period, Greenville and its surrounding Upcountry have been at the heart of a lot of history.

Visitors to this bustling little town will find very sophisticated arts, dining and shopping options, unique pieces of baseball and automotive history, and right outside it, lovely countryside full of outdoors opportunities.

Shoeless Joe and German cars

Baseball buffs still recount the tragic story of “Shoeless Joe” Jackson, one of the sport’s all-time best hitters, who was convicted in the Black Sox scandal of 1919 and banned from baseball. Attempts continue to restore his good name and make him eligible for the Hall of Fame. A touching tribute to him is a Greenville landmark: The Shoeless Joe Jackson Museum and Baseball Library. Housed in Jackson’s actual house, and staffed by devoted volunteers, the museum contains priceless baseball artifacts, including Jackson’s ultra-rare signature, which he “drew” because he could not write. www.shoelessjoejackson.org

Shifting gears to another don’t-miss: BMW Zentrum, located just outside the city in Greer, is a stunning tribute to some of world’s best-engineered cars. Everything from tiny three-wheelers to the 507 Roadster is on display here. You can also tour the plant Monday-Friday. www.bmwusfactory.com

World-class art and interactive history

Within easily walkable Heritage Green, The Greenville County Museum of Art, www.greenvillemuseum.org, contains outstanding collections of American artists Jasper Johns and Andrew Wyeth, plus galleries of work from Southern artists that will surprise and delight art-lovers. And the interactive Upcountry History Museum, www.upcountryhistory, uses videos and walk-in exhibits to tell the region’s story, from Cherokee times to the present. Especially notable are the videos that tell the stories of city civil-rights pioneers.

Those who enjoy discovering new artists should beeline straight to the Pendleton Street Art District, a re-energized area of studios, galleries, shops and coffee houses that will remind you of our own Main Street revival. Within the Flatiron Building alone, 1203-1211 Pendleton Street, you’ll find art&light gallery, showcasing new work, Knack, with coolly re-purposed furniture, Kyle, modern paintings by Kyle Buttram, and Lily Pottery, clay as form and function.

And no visit to Greenville is complete without a stroll through Falls Park, smack dab in the center of the Main Street District, and across the Liberty Bridge to view the Reedy River as it cascades down through the city. Many of the restaurants and shops along both sides of the river offer refreshing views of its changing waters.

Extreme (and not so) Outdoors:

Books have been written about the plethora of walking, running, hiking, bicycling, kayaking, canoeing, rock climbing and other outdoors activities in the area surrounding Greenville. Not only are no less than 12 state parks close by, providing nature and exercise opportunities of all levels, but top-class athletes, such as Greenville’s own famous cyclist, George Hincapie, now make the region their home. If leisurely walking is for you, you may not need to leave the walking-friendly city limits at all. But if, say, the Paris Mountain 20K is more your style, that’s an option as well. Go magazine, published monthly, will give you a complete breakdown of outdoors events in the area, www.gomagsc.com. For information about state parks, visit www.southcarolinaparks.com

If You Go:

For a city its size, Greenville has a big selection of places to stay, comprising everything from luxury B&Bs to econo motels. Here are two distinct choices:

Hotels: The Westin Poinsett Greenville, built in 1925 and reopened in 2000, is a beautifully restored property on happening Main Street. (864) 421-9700. www.westin.com/poinsett

Inn: About 25 miles into the mountains is the luxurious La Bastide Country Inn. Surrounded by its own vineyards, the inn features first-class dining for guests and rooms furnished in French antiques. (864) 836-8463. www.labastide.com

Dining:

Hip dining and drinking are found at American Grocery in the West End district. 732 S. Main St. (864) 232-7665.

Considered one of Greenville’s premier restaurants, the warm interior of Devereaux’s is matched by its seasonal menus, including two chef’s tasting menus, and excellent wine list. 25 E. Court St. (864) 241-3030.www.devereauxsdining.com

More Information:

The Greenville Convention & Visitors Bureau, (800) 717-0023, www.greenvillecvb.com, can send you the Michelin-produced Greenville and Upcountry guide.